Match of the week

Crab, chervil and Smederevka

Crab, chervil and Smederevka

There were two wine pairings in contention for my match of the week slot this week. The other being the excellent combination of mature cheddar with Washington State cabernet but that’s not rocket science and this was the more intriguing discovery.

It stemmed from the fact that I suddenly have an abundance of herbs including chervil which I’ve managed to grow successfully for the first time and am flinging into everything. It has, I’ve discovered, a wonderful affinity with fresh crab with which I was planning to do something clever but decided in the end to serve straight with a squeeze of lemon, mayo and chervil sprinkled lavishly on top.

Having tried a youngish chablis (a bit of a disappointment) and a New Zealand sauvignon blanc (too overpowering) I found the perfect match in a crisp, citrussy white called Smederevka Belo 2019 12% from Tikves in Macedonia which had marked herbal notes of its own. (Smederevka is the grape variety, Tikves is the place)

It’s great value too. You can buy it for £8.45 from the The Whisky Exchange or £48.18 for six and from a number of other indies including Noble Green.

For other crab pairings see The Best Wines to Pair with Crab

I was sent the smederevka as a sample by The Whisky Exchange.

 Txakoli and practically everything on the Palomar menu

Txakoli and practically everything on the Palomar menu

I think Txakoli may be my new favourite restaurant wine - or at least it is this summer. It’s a unique, sharp, very slightly fizzy white wine from the Basque region of Spain. The one we were drinking - at the Palomar in Soho - was the Agerra Txakoli which comes from the designated origin of Getariako

It went quite brilliantly with The Palomar’s food which I guess can best be described as modern Israeli but to which they give their own unique twist. It’s full of vivid and delicious flavours but the element that I think went best was the dairy one - dishes like the burnt courgette tzatziki, and beetroot carpaccio with burnt goat’s cheese (needless to say, fashionably singed not burnt to a cinder).

It was also great with the Kubaneh (Yemeni pot baked bread served with tahini & ‘velvet tomatoes’ a luxuriant fresh tomato dip that tasted a bit like gazpacho. Oh and the mysteriously but seductively spiced fish felafel

You can buy the Agerra for £13.95 from Whitmore and White in the Wirral, Cheshire. I also very much like the Flysch txacoli I recommended in my Guardian column this week.

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